Bow Set up

Rick,

I got a copy of your Accuracy Factory DVD last year and really enjoyed it. I'm still somewhat unclear on how you set up a bow to shoot where you are looking. Could you provide some detail on bow set up?

Thanks for your time,

Doug

Hello Doug, Not Rick by any-means but what particular point of bow set-up are you concerned with? Brace, knocking point? I guess I'm just wondering what part the video was not clear to you...Maybe I can help or some of the other members might be able to in the meantime.

Pretty new myself on this forum but Welcome!!

Snide,

Thanks for your reply. I have been shooting traditional since 1983, but always shot split finger. I guess it's the left and right that gives me trouble shooting 3 under. I have a ACS bow that shoots about 6-8" to the right of my other bows. I didn't really understand how you adjust left or right without significantly effecting arrow spine.

Thanks,

Doug

Quick Question, Are these same arrows shooting well out of your other bows?

OK shooting to the right......I'm not a pro so these are not recommendations but just suggestions if ya will.

1). What do you have on the end?? Are you shooting a heavy point? If so you may try a lighter field tip.

2). You also may want to toy with your side plate Rick Recommends in volume two of his DVD's to adjust your side plate out by applying double sided tape behind the side plate and bringing it out accordingly until the arrows are hitting the mark.

3). More along the lines of arrow tuning... but, can you shorten your arrow shaft any at all? Your arrow could just be weak or underspined outta that particular bow..

Granted you arrow tuning is in order, correct spine and length....When my form is at it's best. I find that just about all my High-Low problems can be fixed by just adjusting my knocking point, and just about all my right or left problems can be fixed by adjusting my shelf rug or strike plate..

Hope I'm close to helping...

Also meant to add, when I started shooting more seriously in the late 80's I shot three under...After caving to pressure of some of the fella's I shot around at the time, I switched to mediterranean style or "split finger". I shot split finger for many years, just recently I too went back to three under....And after a few days it's like I found an old lost friend. The three under is a more forgiving method in my honest opinion, and I'm sure you will settle right into it in no time. But I can't understand why the three finger under method would cause one to shoot right?? Pinching or plucking the string maybe? Rick or someone more experienced than I would have to offer up suggestion on that I guess..Remember to keep the back tension and try to obtain the unconscious release. Cause I would say if you feel the arrow flight to the right is caused by merely adapting three fingers under the knock I would only assume the problem lies more with the release than the hold....

Just suggestions...Heck, you have been shooting longer than I have...Please do not take this as me thinking I actually know more than anyone, just trying to help if any at all. I'm sure some of our more experienced shooting experts will chime in, and possibly Rick sometime soon..I talked to him the other night he is pretty swamped with bow orders and don't get as much time as he would like to check this forum he said...

Snide,

My first thought was that my arrows may be underspined. I went from a 340 spine to a 300 and the result was the same. I am shooting 250 upfront, however, this arrow shoots well split finger out of the same bow. My draw length is 29 1/2 ". It could very well be a form problem. I may be incorrect, but I thought adding material to the shelf would make the shaft weaker and contribute more to the problem. It may only be my perception, but it seems that is easier to shoot 3 under with a recurve style grip.

I appreciate you feedback.

Thanks,

Doug

No problem Doug!!

I wish I had a more applicable answer for ya..

The fact that the same arrow shoots good split finger but yet throwing right while shooting three under makes me scratch my head a bit...I'd say it would more than likely be a form thing possibly the release (plucking the string?)...But I'm not 100% sure...Maybe Rick will chime in here soon, I actualy thought about this post today while working...(I often drift off aimlessly while at work..LOL) and I'm kinda wondering what the problem is myself...so please keep me posted if you find the cause or solution..

Take care!!

Snide,

I switch back and forth between shooting split and 3 under with my other bows that I have and don't have the issue of shooting to the right. I was hoping to get more details on using different materials and adjusting the side plate to make a right or left adjustment. The Accuracy Factory DVD goes into detail about adjusting the nock up or down, but there's not a lot of detail on left to right adjustment. It's been cold and snowy here in WV and along with work obligations, I have not had time to play around with it any more.

Thanks,

Doug

Those work obligations get in the way of my bow shooting all the time!! LOL

No problem Doug!!

Take Care.

Rick,

Some additional information-when shooting my ACS bow in a canted position, it shoots straight toward the target. When I bring the bow into a vertical position, it shoots 6-7" to the right.

Thanks,

Doug

Well what I got out of it was FIRST master the form part ( I am going to his clinic in June to get some hands on) - this will be the biggest change for all of us. Just Bale shoot (so get real close don't aim).

Just repeat the process - feet balanced - shoulder towards the target - bow between your legs (to give your bow arm a rest) - even the tips of your fingers - lay them on the string half way between end and first joint - bend nuckle - take a deep breath and let it out slowly - inhale while you draw (draw away from your face) - hold breath - rest nuckle on ear lobe - put nose on feather - wait 2 seconds to steady your bow arm - release (unconsiuosly) - let air out and relax. go get your arrow and repeat.

Sounds simple enough right...hmmm.

Once you get the from down you can work on the setup. The rest of the stuff that was mentioned above will cover the setup part and it sound to me that your arrows are too weak.

PS - his method will add 1/2" to your draw too....that's a couple of pounds on some bows and with a high performance ACS that could put your arrow choice a bit weak.

So:

cut arrow

less tip weight

build plate out

Get it as close as possible then let your mind and body learn...

Jer

jerbearyukon,

Thanks for the reply. I tried the next stiffer shaft and even reduced the point wait. Still the same result. I think it may be a form problem or the rest on the bow is not set up correctly for 3 under.

Thanks,

Doug

Hey you could always phone Rick....seems he doesn't get on here much and that's ok..means he is helping ppl out in the flesh. Keep at it and I am sure you will get her figured...One thing is...if it is consistantly hitting in the same place then it isn't form.....maybe everything is ok and you just need to train your mind/body now.

What you could do just to check is this....tape a temporary sight (toothpick) whatever on the back of your riser. Use it WITH your form and line it up...don't worry where the arrow hits just keep using the same place. If it hits everytime close to that then you are good.

You know that the bow and your form are giving you repeatable shots...now you just have to get your body to learn it.

Rick says get your form first and them tune your bow later.....he will probably have an answer for you if you just phone him.

Jer

Dear Friends:
My name is Julio Lozano:

I have had many good bows like Black Widow, Habu, Bob Lee, Century.... also Imade my own long Bows see photo.
All bows must have the window cutted 3/16 max or 1/8 past center.
If the bow hasn´t make following this ruled You will have many problems to adjust the arrow flight and allways the
arrow will impact 5 o6 inches at right.

Isn´t good solution to use too high spine or too light arrow point....
To light point arrowwill cause a poor FOC ARROW....

The only way to adjust is to add a plate on the window to reach the desired 3/16"

Try this... take the soft side plate off your bow and put a smooth, hard leather plate. This should bring your arrows to the left some. Opposite if you are a lefty.
Rick J.